Imagine a winter paradise in the northernmost reaches of the Japanese Alps, where every turn on the slopes reveals breathtaking panoramas and a sense adventure.
Welcome to Hakuba Valley, Japan – a destination that offers an unforgettable experience for family travellers, writes Benjamin and Erin Tuffy. Located in the Nagano Prefecture of Japan, Hakuba is renowned for its world-class piste skiing and stunning natural beauty. Tucked away amidst the towering peaks of the Northern Alps, Hakuba offers a perfect blend of traditional Japanese charm and modern needs for families traveling to world-class snow destinations.
Image Hiroya Nakata
Getting to Hakuba.
Image Hiroya Nakata
Getting to Hakuba is easy thanks to Japan’s efficient rail network. From Tokyo City, travellers can either hop on the Azusa train from Shinjuku station or take the Shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo station to Nagano, followed by a stunning bus ride through to Hakuba. The end-to-end journey from Tokyo of 2-3 hours is not only convenient but also offers scenic views along the way, and is an exciting adventure in itself. Alternatively, if you want to skip the city altogether there is a direct bus straight from Narita Airport so you can hit the slopes as soon as you land!
Steep, deep, and full of surprises.
Image Hiroya Nakata
Our journey in Hakuba was filled with excitement and discovery, both on and off the mountain. From exploring hidden shrines to immersing ourselves in the atmosphere of the Snow Machine Festival. But it was on the slopes of Hakuba and its choice of 10 resorts where we truly experienced the magic of this world famous snow destination.
Our days on the mountain were nothing short of epic. We kicked-off our skiing adventure at Happo-One, the largest resort in the valley, with an elevation of 1,831m, boasting 22 lifts and 16 courses for our family’s mix of ski/snowboard. With long lifts up, the rides down felt just as long as you traverse across the mountain from left to right and back again.
Happo One caters to all skill levels, offering gentle slopes for beginners to challenging terrain for the more experienced members of the family and plenty of dining options on the mountain. To add to the excitement, with the Snow Machine Festival in full force during our time there, we were treated to a surprise performance by @diplo at the @oakleyjapan First Base Stage—a truly amazing vibe as the set echoed through the valley, creating one very memorable family day on the slopes!
The Evergreen Ski School provided excellent lessons for both our son and daughter at their respective levels. With panoramic views from the lifts, each ride was a feast for the eyes, showcasing the stunning beauty of Hakuba in all its powdery snow-covered mountain glory.
Getting around Hakuba’s 10 resorts was also easy, thanks to the handy bus network that made hopping between resorts as easy as a hop-on-hop-off bus – be sure to download the bus app and don’t forget to organise yourself a Hakuba Valley Lift Pass—it’s your golden ticket to a hassle-free experience with the family. With this pass, you’ll cruise through the gates without the wait, perfect for those eager to hit the slopes every day. Plus, as a bonus, pass holders get to ride the inter-resort shuttle for free! So, grab your pass, hop on the shuttle, and go explore all the awesome Ski Resorts Hakuba Valley has.
Luxury amongst the trees.
Image Hakuba Tokyu Hotel
With a wide range of accommodations across Hakuba to suit all budgets and styles our family experienced two exceptional stays during our time there. Firstly, Hakuba Tokyu Hotel captivated us with its blend of old-world charm and elegance mixed with convenience. Nestled amidst the picturesque Wadano forest, this luxury hotel offers a tranquil sanctuary with breathtaking views from private balconies.
Stepping into the grand entrance hall was unexpected for the entire family, greeted by the hotel’s majestic chateau-style architecture, mixed with wood and stone to harmonise with the surrounding beauty. The spacious accommodation, ranging from standard to deluxe, provided ample space for relaxation and rejuvenation after a day of adventure.
What truly set Hakuba Tokyu Hotel apart was its proximity to the mountain, town, and local restaurants and bars. In addition, it offered exceptional amenities and personalised service to cater to all our needs. From the cozy French dining, Restaurant Chamonix and sophisticated bar & lounge to the spa with indoor and outdoor onsens, every aspect of our stay was top-notch. The hotel’s ski rental shop ensured hassle-free access to equipment, while laundry facilities and a dry room kept our belongings fresh and clean throughout our stay.
Home away from home
After our stay at Tokyu, we ventured to Hakuba Yamano Hotel, nestled beneath the iconic 1998 Nagano Olympics Ski Jumps. As we approached, the sight thrilled the kids, setting the tone for an unforgettable experience. Inside, we were greeted by a warm, personalised atmosphere that felt like a cozy winter retreat among friends. Owned and operated by the charming Muto Keita and his lovely wife, the hotel exuded charm and hospitality. The hotel featured a traditional tatami mat loft bedroom for the kids and a hearty buffet breakfast with both Western and local options.
The hotel’s location opposite the Olympic ski jump added a touch of history to our stay and the kids loved watching the Olympic jump reruns while enjoying their breakfast view of the jump!
Mr. Keita, a former athlete with deep roots in Hakuba, offered invaluable insights and the history of the area and its ski resorts, enriching our stay with local expertise. The hotel provided not only comfort but also unique connections with other travellers coming and going.
Spoilt for choice
With both locations conveniently located just a short 5 to 10-minute stroll from the town centre, there’s a wide range of restaurants and food trucks to explore and warm tap rooms, pubs and shops to check out. We were briefed to book restaurants in advance via TableCheck and be sure to pre-book taxis if you need to move the kids around late at night.
During our time, we experienced a range of restaurants and found ourselves dining at three memorable places. The first was Nonjae, authentic and local, a Japanese friend booked it for us as a must-see and visit, The second Gyoza LAS VEGAS was a lively and bustling local where languages from all over the world filled the room, creating a vibrant atmosphere. It was simple, but fabulous. The third spot served was Unjuana, a cozy wooden burger and tap beer joint that served what might just be one of the top three burgers I’ve ever had, anywhere. The kids agreed, making it a cheesy change from sushi and ramen noodles.
To cap off this adventure, on our second last night in Hakuba, the snowfall was extraordinary—50 cm overnight, one of the largest we’ve experienced. What began as a quiet walk home between the falling flakes turned into an epic snowball fight, setting the stage for an incredible day of skiing and boarding the following day. What an unforgettable experience it was!
Is Hakuba worth a visit with the family?
Absolutely yes! Our experience in Hakuba was nothing short of awesome, a true snowboarders’ and skiers’ destination, that must be experienced. From the thrill of skiing down pristine slopes to the incredible big mountain views, the warmth of Japanese hospitality is mixed in with the buzz of a big snow destination town. Every moment was filled with joy and curiosity for the family. We would highly recommend Hakuba to any family traveller seeking adventure, relaxation, and memories in the heart of Japan’s winter wonderland.
- He said: Coming back for Snow Machine with the kids (when they’re old enough).
- She said: Let’s get a car next time we visit to explore more. So much to see!!
- They said: Can we go to the Sun Terrace Panorama for dinner? We want the Spaghetti Bolognese again!.